「海を見に行く-房総半島鵜原理想郷散策」

To the Sea
Walking in Ubara Risou-kyou, Boso Peninsula

 

March 29, 2007

千葉県房総半島の鵜原を散策した。三島由紀夫の作品に惹かれたわけでもなく、与謝野晶子の歌を辿ろうとしたわけでもない。東京西郊から日帰りで行ってこられる海辺を探すうち、丁寧にこのハイキングコースを紹介する勝浦市主催のサイトに出会った。「鵜原理想郷」という面はゆいような地名には以前から興味を持っていたが、実際に歩いてみてその名の由来を確かめることができたように思う。首都圏から二時間余り、ローカル線でこのような場所に行けるのかと驚いた。

散策コース入り口へはJR鵜原駅下車ののち、10分も歩けば到着する。そこから緩い傾斜を上ったり下ったりしながら一時間半ほどの行程でいくつもの岬の頂に至り、太平洋と向き合うことができる。強風吹きすさぶリアス式海岸の絶壁は、都会モードだった心と体を一気にサバイバルモードへと転換させる。大海原の広がりとうねり、海鳴り、天と地と海の接するところに辛うじて立っているのがやっとだった。

岬から鵜原海岸へ下ると、夏はさぞかし海水浴客で賑わうだろう砂浜に出る。周囲の切り立った崖に押し寄せる波頭を遠望しながら渚を歩く。今は誰にも出会わない。都心では満開と報じられた桜もこの土地ではまだ少し早かったようだ。海の家も食べ物屋も扉を閉ざし、何もかもひっそりとしていた。

浜辺からは、再び鵜原駅近くを通過して「勝浦海中公園」へ行ける。荒磯に水深8メートル、全高24.4メートルの海中展望塔が設置されている。内部には120余段の螺旋階段があり、海中の展望室で海底の様子を観察することができる。水族館ではないので、その日によって海水の透明度が違い見られる魚も異なる。この日は視界4メートル、(おそらく)メジナの群れが窓の外を泳ぎ回っていた。

朝は東京駅から蘇我経由外房線で鵜原まで来た。帰りは鵜原から更に外房線を下って鴨川まで行き、そこから内房線に乗り換えて、館山、富浦、木更津などを経由し、蘇我から再び東京へ。結局房総半島を一周することになった。かつて父が鴨川の病院に入院していたこともあり、何度も往来した路線ではあったが当時は途中下車など思いもよらなかった。大海原を全身で堪能する一日に恵まれた。

I took a walk at Ubara in Boso Peninsula, Chiba Prefecture. I went there not because I was interested in a novel by Mishima Yukio's nor by the poetry of Yosano Akiko. (Both of them are praising the beauty of this place in their literary works.) While I was looking for a seaside trail where I could visit in a day trip, I happened to find a good website produced by Katusura City. This area is called "Ubara Land of Ideals." I've heard of this grand name with a bit of embarrassment, but truly seeing is believing." I know now the reason of the naming. Surprisingly, it takes us only 2 hours and a half from the central part of Tokyo by local trains.

The starting point of the trail is in a 10 minute walking distance from Ubara Station (JR Sotobo-Line).. It takes us about one hour and a half, if we walk in a leisurely pace, to cover the hilly hiking trail. On the way we have various view spots where we can face the Pacific Ocean as much as we like. On the top of cliffs, it was extremely windy so that we could hardly stand still: our urban sense of life is immediately switched to survival instinct. In the midst of wilderness--the roar of the sea, the wind, and the boundless sky--all we could do was just to keep standing.

Climbing down from the cliffs, we come to Ubara Beach which must be very popular in summer with visitors. I walked around the seaside, watching the waves rushing against the upright rock walls of the shore in the distance. In this season nobody was around. All the beachside huts and restaurants were closed. It was too early for cherry blossoms there while in Tokyo reportedly most of the cherry trees were already in full bloom. Everything was quiet in the beach.

"Katsuura Sea Park" is not far from Ubara Station. There is an underwater observation tower 8 meters deep in the sea (24.4 meters as a whole). You go down by a steep winding stairway to the sea bottom. Because it's not an artificial aquarium, transparency of the seawater varies depending upon the natural condition. This day the transparency was 4 meters. A school of girella was observed out of the windows.

In the morning, we went to Ubara via Soga by JR Sotobo-Line. On the way back we caught a local train of the same line to Kamogawa, where we changed to JR Uchibo Line. We went back to Tokyo via Tateyama, Tomiura, Kisarazu, and Soga (again). It means we went all around Boso Peninsula in a day. Once my father was staying in a hospital in Kamogawa; so we used to go back and forth between Tokyo and Kamogawa frequently by both Sotobo/Ucihibo Lines. We were familiar with the area but we never thought of going out of our fixed route those days. This time I totally enjoyed a day in Boso Peninsula.

 

JR外房線鵜原駅/ Ubara Station of JR Stotbo Line.

 

鵜原駅ホームにあるログハウス風待合室/ A log cabin (a waiting room) on the platform of Ubara Station.

 

鵜原駅を出てから三つ四つのトンネルをくぐってハイキングコースへ。/ There are three or four tunnels leading to the walking trail.

ハイキングコースへ行く道すがら、草の上にボートが置いてあった。海が近い。/On the way to the trail, a couple of boats were placed on the grass.

勝場港。ダイビングスポットも近い。/ Katsuba Port. A diving spot is nearby.

狭いトンネルがいくつか続く。崖の下を通っている。/ Under a cliff, there are several narrow tunnels.

鵜原理想郷ハイキングコース起点。/ The starting point of Ubara Risoukyou (Land of Ideals) hiking trail.

ハイキングコース起点にあった案内板の地図。/ A picutre map of the area.

緩やかな登り坂が続く。木々の間からはウグイスの啼く声がきこえる。/ A moderate uphill along which Japanese bush warblers could be heard.

木々の間に湾が見え隠れする。/ A bay was seen between trees.

登り坂の途中から見下ろした勝場港。/ Katsuba Port viewed from the hill.

次第に視界が開けてくる。/ Gradually the range of view is expanding.

とうとう太平洋が眼下に開けた。/ Eventually the Pacific was in front of us.

少し曇っていたので、海原は冷たい青。/ As it was a little cloudy, the sea was in cold blue.

まだ枯れ草の残る手弱女平。/ Grasses were still in dried color on the top of Taoyame Daira.

岬の先端に手弱女平の鐘が微かに見える。/ At the end of the cape, the bell of Taoyame Daira is seen.

手弱女平道標/ The landmark of Taoyame Daira.

手弱女平の鐘。/ The bell of Taoyame Daira.

手弱女平から見るひとつ山。/ Mt. Hitotsu viewed from Taoyame Daira.

篠田悌二郎句碑/ A poem by Shinoda Teijirou

断崖に打ち寄せる波/ Waves against the cliff

恐る恐る断崖を覗き込む/ Fearfully I looked down at the foot of the cliff.

長い間海中の岩に砕ける波を見ていた/ I was watching the waves crushing at the rocks in the sea.

日が差してくると海の色が濃くなる。/ When the sunshine came, the color of the sea turned bright.

毛戸岬道標/ The landmark of Cape Kedo.

毎日都市を右往左往していると、海が見たくてたまらなくなる。とうとう来た!/ While working in town, I'm eager to see the sea. Now I was in front of the ocean!

岩山の間から望む海/ The ocean viewd between rocks.

白鳳岬道標/ The landmark of Cape Hakuou

枯れ草と断崖/ Dried leaves and cliffs

断崖に砕ける白波/ White waves breaking agains the cliff

石段の割れ目に咲いていたスミレ/ Violet blooming in a crack of stone steps

崖の上からはどちらを見ても太平洋/ From the top of a cliff, you are surrounded by the Pacific!

緩やかな下り坂を経て、次の岬へ/ To the next cape, following a gentle decent

千葉県と言えば菜の花/ Chiba Prefecutre is famous for field mustard

黄昏の丘から眺めた鵜原海岸の屏風岩/ Perpendicular cliffs of Ubara Bay viewd from "Tasogare-no-Oka" (Twilight Hill)

鵜原海岸/ Ubara Beach

渚に下りてきた。水面に近い。/ We were down tothe beach. Very close to the seawater.

渚に寄せる波。今は誰もいない海。/ Nobody was around.

鵜原湾の漁港/ Fisherman's port of Ubara Bay

漁船が並ぶ/ Fisherman's boats

色とりどりのブイ/ Colorful fishing buoys

網とブイ/ Nets and buoys

鵜原海水浴場/ Ubara beach

海水浴場中央にある鳥居/ A shrine gate in the middle of the beach

崖を洗う波に魅せられて/ Charmed by waves washing the foot of a cliff

明るい海の色/ Bright color of the sea

レースのように引く波/ Withdrawing waves like lace

逆光の海面/ The water in backlight

磯の水たまり/ Water on the rocks on the shore

群青色/ Deep blue

勝浦海中展望塔/ Katsuura Underwater Observation Tower

海中で観察出来る魚たち/ Fish observed underwater

海中展望塔から見る魚の群れ/ Fish ovserved underwater

透明度は4メートル/ Transparency of the water was 4 meters

深い色/ Deep color

浅瀬の煌めき/ Shining water

崖の地層/ Layers of the cliff

荒磯/ Rough beach

砕ける波/ Breaking waves

いつまでも見飽きることなく、いつまでも見たりない海/ You can keep watching the ever changing sea for ever

風速計/ A wind gauge

海と空との境目はどこだ/ Where is the border between the sea and the skhy?

 

ムラサキマムシグサ(Arisaema serratum);photo taken by Jackie

うり二つの草だが、方や「ムラサキマムシグサ」、方や「ウラシマソウ」。違いはヒゲに。漁夫、浦島太郎に因んで、ヒゲを釣り竿に見立てたということらしい。

 

 

ウラシマソウ (Arisaema thunbergii subsp. urashima);photo taken by Jackie

I found there is a big difference between the plant with the long stamen filament and without. The one without the filament is called "mamushi-gusa" (adder) but the one with the filament is called "urashima sou." I believe you all know the Japanese folklore entitled "Urashima Tarou." Urashima is a fisherman. The long filament is observed as a fishing rod.

蛸を捕った漁師/ A fisherman caught an octopus ;photo taken by Jackie

 

浅瀬のウミウシ/ the maroon-colored sea slug, the umi ushi in a tidal pool;photo taken by Jackie

 

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